Why is it leaking around my window frame?

Diagnosis first, then durable fixes. We trace the water path and correct flashing, weep holes, lintels, and repointing—so leaking around the window frame actually stops.

What you’re seeing… and what it really means

A dark stain below the sill after rain. Soft drywall at the jamb. A line of efflorescence under the brick header. Or, in cold snaps, droplets that appear at the corners and run down the casing. It’s natural to wonder whether the issue is the window or the wall.

In brick buildings—especially older duplex/triplex façades—recurring moisture near openings is often a building-envelope problem, not a failed window unit. When through-wall flashing above the opening is missing or compromised, water that should exit to the exterior is diverted into the wall. Add clogged or absent weep holes, and moisture accumulates right where wood, steel, and mortar are least forgiving.

Quick pattern check you can do today

• After steady rain: do stains appear above the head of the window or at the interior top corners? That points to flashing/weep issues.
  
  
• Only during cold snaps: do you see beads of water on the glass itself? That’s likely condensation, not a leak.
  
  
• Rust lines or bulging above the window: the lintel may be corroding and pushing joints open—inviting more water.
  
  

The takeaway: before buying sealant or calling a window vendor, start with a neutral diagnosis of the water path.

Our approach: trace first, then fix what matters

A long-lasting repair doesn’t start at the tube of the caulk. It starts with a methodical inspection of the opening and the brickwork around it.

Step 1: Targeted leak diagnosis

• Moisture mapping by opening (head, jamb, sill) with photos.
  
  
• Probe the envelope details: check for through-wall flashing, confirm presence/continuity of weep holes, and inspect lintels for corrosion or displacement.
  
  
• Mortar assessment around the opening: if joints are washed out or cracked, water is finding the easiest route in.
  
  

Step 2: Scope the right repair (no guesswork)

• If flashing is missing/failed: we remove a controlled band of brick, install new membrane flashing with proper end dams and laps, and reinstate weep holes at the correct spacing.
  
  
• If the lintel is rusted: we replace it (or treat and reset where appropriate), re-establish correct bearing, and detail head flashing over it.
  
  
• If mortar joints are open: we repoint with a compatible, breathable mix and proper tooling to shed water.
  
  
• If perimeter sealant has failed: we re-caulk with backer rod and the correct sealant chemistry—but only after the masonry details work.
  
  

Step 3: Validate and finish

• Water test the opening (as conditions allow) to ensure correct shedding.
  
  
• Reset and clean brick units; low-pressure, masonry-safe cleaning—not aggressive blasting.
  
  
• Photo package documenting before/after by opening so you know what was done and why.